Paris Fashion Week is full of minimalism and renaissance flourishes
Paris Fashion Week is full of minimalism and renaissance flourishes
PARIS (AP) – Dull Paris weather didn’t dampen the energy of the French capital’s ready-to-wear shows, which continued Saturday, vibrantly bursting with the restrained colors of minimalism from Renaissance exuberance.
Here are some highlights from Paris Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2023-2024 collections:
Eli Saab says with flowers
Singers Ciara and Avril Lavigne discuss the crowds and slippery stone steps to get to the Palais de Tokyo, venue for Elie Saab’s show. Inside, the Lebanese designer presents a nod to the Renaissance bouquet, with flowers sprouting from every nook, cranny, seam and hem.
The 1970s-style pants feature flowing hydrangea embroidery, as well as bold prints in ruby and flashes of shimmering citrine.
With Saab’s bread-and-butter va-va-voom silhouettes, the collection bursts into the evening with gusto. Perfect mermaid gowns and dresses shimmer in palette and tulle with three-dimensional flowers.
The best looks were metaphorical, like an Asiatic pleated cummerbund that flared out dramatically like opening petals.
Hermes fashion as camouflage
Hermès creative director Nadege Vanhi-Cybulski has a simple, but powerful, proposition for fall – creating each look in the same shade of color so that it melts into itself like camouflage.
“Just as a tree has a second skin beneath its surface, a bark like fabric, there is a dialogue constantly taking shape between materials, between colors, between details,” the fashion house waxed poetic.
The one-color concept created a minimalist feel while looks featured layering and detailing, such as long duffel-style coats in double-sided cashmere, zip-up coats in shiny lambskin, embroidery, belts, buckles and straps.
The first look, a loosely textured double skirt dress, cognac red and . It featured a hat reminiscent of equestrian style – not surprising given the house’s close association with show jumping.
Monochromatic musings continued amid textural tension – such as a pleated skirt in bright red silk that contrasted brilliantly with accompanying tall suede boots.
Copernicus’ canine tail
How does Bella Hadid match the spray-on dress that went instantly viral last season and raised Koperni’s profile?
Designers Sebastian Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant went to the world of dogs for help – that is, the curious world of robo-dogs. Five Boston Dynamics cyber dogs known as Spot were the stars of the show, posing in various yoga positions for Instagram-friendly snaps of fashion insiders.
The technology and canine theme continued in the designs, which were mainly made from recycled materials and inspired by a version of a famous French fable “The Wolf and the Lamb”.
The story was retold as paintings on leather jackets. The sheaths were cut as if clawed by a predator. Enveloped shawls were an adaptation of “Little Red Riding Hood”. The gorgeous feather mini dress looks like a wolf has grabbed a chicken pen.
A shaggy floor-length coat looks like a wolf skinned and given the Cruella de Vil treatment.
Japan’s fashion forward heir
Junia Watanabe, dominated by Comme des Garcons designer Rei Kawakubo, was in fine fashion-forward form on Saturday, continuing with her oft-mentioned theme of “Monozukuri.” It means “to make things” in Japanese and now it means innovation in fashion production and using technology to create materials.
For fall, the talented Japanese designer went full-on utilitarian for a dark and aggressive show that used toggles, armor-like padded coats, ninja face coverings, and black head gear to create fencing-like combat sportswear.
Braided hair draped around the head and face for dramatic effect on the foggy runway.
Flashes of swirling color, including neon blue, nicely blended cycling and combat themes, while structured black leather coats with eyelets, straps, buckles and zippers combined biker gear with traditional Asian attire.
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